Even though the most popular guide book for Ghana, Bradt written by Philip Briggs, displays Mole National Park as one of the country’s main attractions, you might think twice before deciding to pay the park a visit.
Going from Tamale to Mole can be a Dantesque journey. The only direct public busses to Mole Motel run from the Metro Mass Busstation. Supposedly there’s a bus every day around 3 pm, and you can’t buy the ticket in advance, so you would have to go there past noon and wait under the always strong African sun at the dirty and chaotic station. At least people are helpful and take care of travellers, so they board the right bus. Also they make sure to tell you to be patient, as to the bus always being late because of constant repairs. If it leaves before dark you’re lucky. If you feel lost, ask for Abio, he’s very helpful.
The trip only takes about 4 and a half hours (for 135 km!!!!) but this is the trip itself and without taking in account the multiple stops and breaks on the way. You will be lucky to arrive at a time when the restaurant is still open and you’ll be able to eat dinner or buy water. If you’re lucky to arrive before the restaurant’s closing time at 10 pm, the dinner served is dry rice and almost uneadible leftovers served for high prices (9 GhC).
Make sure you reserve a room at the Mole Motel as it’s very often full. Do this at least 3-4 days before arrival. Bradt guidebook lists 4 numbers, of which only one (the first one) is valid. The rest are cancelled. The rooms are big but old and badly maintained, and as the only option for sleeping in Mole, it’s quite highpriced considering the quality. At least there’s a bar with plenty of beer for a reasonable price, so you can swim in the pool and have beer to make up for the disappointment of what is supposed to be one of Ghana’s biggest attractions.
The disappointment is not only the difficult access at odd hours with the Metro Mass bus, the poor quality of the motel, the impossible visit further into the park, unless you take the safari hikes for 2-3 hours (best in the morning). Mole National Park lacks what other safaris offer. It’s certainly cheaper in Mole National Park, but you get the quality you pay for. During the rainy season it’s difficult to see big animals like elephants, as water is plentiful so they don´t need to drink by the lake below Mole Motel. Also in the rainy season the roads in the park might be flooded, so you won´t be able to do 4wd tours. If you come in the dry season, you will probably see elephants drinking at this lake, but bring binoculars because the very small viewing platform is at far distance from the animals.
Situated at the Information Center there’s a small and fairly cheap handicraft shop (cheaper than the Cultural Centres in most bigger cities) and also a convenience store with soft drinks and crackers.
There is a new company, Eco Journeys, running shuttles between Tamale and Mole for 4 times the price of the Metro Mass bus (5 GhC compared to Eco Journey’s 20 GhC), and it seems good value and certainly more comfortable. Most hotels (all over Ghana) have their pamflets but calling them might not make you any wiser and might just give give you the impression it’s not a serious company. Personal contact is better: their office in Tamale is at the Cultural Center and they have an office in Mole at the Information Center. The shuttels run twice daily in the morning and around noon. Taking this option you avoid the always very late arrival and the trip only takes 3 hours. In Mole the guy in charge of Eco Journeys is a very nice man named Castro, and you can reach him on number (+233) 0247795041.
In evaluation, Mole National Park might not be what you expect if you think of it as safari. It’s just mediocre accomodation, early bush walks and relax at the pool the rest of the day (bring a book!). Philip Briggs is right, it’s cheaper than other African safaris and probably the only place to do safari hikes. Once again, you get what you pay for. If you expect to see plenty of big wild animals, the whole circle of life from ”The Lion King” you’re in the wrong place. Save your money, go to the zoo or save for your next journey including a real safari somewhere else.
But if suffering on a bus for almost 6 hours, pay the overpriced bill at the Mole Motel, laze around the pool most of the day, and then again suffer going back to civilization, this is certainly your thing.
Going from Tamale to Mole can be a Dantesque journey. The only direct public busses to Mole Motel run from the Metro Mass Busstation. Supposedly there’s a bus every day around 3 pm, and you can’t buy the ticket in advance, so you would have to go there past noon and wait under the always strong African sun at the dirty and chaotic station. At least people are helpful and take care of travellers, so they board the right bus. Also they make sure to tell you to be patient, as to the bus always being late because of constant repairs. If it leaves before dark you’re lucky. If you feel lost, ask for Abio, he’s very helpful.
The trip only takes about 4 and a half hours (for 135 km!!!!) but this is the trip itself and without taking in account the multiple stops and breaks on the way. You will be lucky to arrive at a time when the restaurant is still open and you’ll be able to eat dinner or buy water. If you’re lucky to arrive before the restaurant’s closing time at 10 pm, the dinner served is dry rice and almost uneadible leftovers served for high prices (9 GhC).
Make sure you reserve a room at the Mole Motel as it’s very often full. Do this at least 3-4 days before arrival. Bradt guidebook lists 4 numbers, of which only one (the first one) is valid. The rest are cancelled. The rooms are big but old and badly maintained, and as the only option for sleeping in Mole, it’s quite highpriced considering the quality. At least there’s a bar with plenty of beer for a reasonable price, so you can swim in the pool and have beer to make up for the disappointment of what is supposed to be one of Ghana’s biggest attractions.
The disappointment is not only the difficult access at odd hours with the Metro Mass bus, the poor quality of the motel, the impossible visit further into the park, unless you take the safari hikes for 2-3 hours (best in the morning). Mole National Park lacks what other safaris offer. It’s certainly cheaper in Mole National Park, but you get the quality you pay for. During the rainy season it’s difficult to see big animals like elephants, as water is plentiful so they don´t need to drink by the lake below Mole Motel. Also in the rainy season the roads in the park might be flooded, so you won´t be able to do 4wd tours. If you come in the dry season, you will probably see elephants drinking at this lake, but bring binoculars because the very small viewing platform is at far distance from the animals.
Situated at the Information Center there’s a small and fairly cheap handicraft shop (cheaper than the Cultural Centres in most bigger cities) and also a convenience store with soft drinks and crackers.
There is a new company, Eco Journeys, running shuttles between Tamale and Mole for 4 times the price of the Metro Mass bus (5 GhC compared to Eco Journey’s 20 GhC), and it seems good value and certainly more comfortable. Most hotels (all over Ghana) have their pamflets but calling them might not make you any wiser and might just give give you the impression it’s not a serious company. Personal contact is better: their office in Tamale is at the Cultural Center and they have an office in Mole at the Information Center. The shuttels run twice daily in the morning and around noon. Taking this option you avoid the always very late arrival and the trip only takes 3 hours. In Mole the guy in charge of Eco Journeys is a very nice man named Castro, and you can reach him on number (+233) 0247795041.
In evaluation, Mole National Park might not be what you expect if you think of it as safari. It’s just mediocre accomodation, early bush walks and relax at the pool the rest of the day (bring a book!). Philip Briggs is right, it’s cheaper than other African safaris and probably the only place to do safari hikes. Once again, you get what you pay for. If you expect to see plenty of big wild animals, the whole circle of life from ”The Lion King” you’re in the wrong place. Save your money, go to the zoo or save for your next journey including a real safari somewhere else.
But if suffering on a bus for almost 6 hours, pay the overpriced bill at the Mole Motel, laze around the pool most of the day, and then again suffer going back to civilization, this is certainly your thing.
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